With three countries and two giant sets of Iguazú waterfalls to see, we hit the ground running from Puerto Iguazú to see the Iguazú Falls from both the Argentine and Brazil sides and to visit Paraguay. How’d we squeeze all the Iguazú sites in on a budget and what did it cost us on this 4-day itinerary for Iguazú Falls (which you could probably squeeze into a 3-day itinerary for Iguazú if you had to)?
We share all the details below.
How to Buy Argentine Airline Tickets
Before we get into the details of the trip, let’s first address the difficulty in buying flights and flying on the Argentine airlines like Fly Bondi, JetSmart or LATAM. If you don’t have an Argentine DNI number (their national identification), buying Argentine flights is difficult.
This is the trick we used successfully: when searching for the flights, you can search and read the google results in English. But when you click “next” to go to any Buy page, don’t allow google to translate the page. For whatever reason, the translation causes credit card payments to fail. Also, if you’re still asked for a DNI number when buying an Argentine flight, we successfully typed in any 8 digit number like 12345678, and it worked perfectly.
A Warning about Fly Bondi
We had read the warnings about flying Fly Bondi and their penchant for cancelling flights. We were egotistical enough or hopeful to think it wouldn’t happen to us. Actually, bad flight karma happened four times.
Our outbound flight from AEP airport in Buenos Aires had a time change and then a move to the EZE airport across town at the last minute. Fortunately, we had arrived at the first airport earlier enough to take an hour cab across town ($35 extra) to catch our newly placed flight. Our inbound flight from Puerto Iguazú to Buenos Aires got cancelled two days before our departure and rescheduled for the day after our original departure. It got cancelled a second time, and we never got rescheduled on another flight. We ended up having to buy a new inbound flight, and we’re awaiting refunds. We have filed Trip Cancellation Insurance with our Chase Sapphire Preferred card.
Fortunately, our Airbnbs on both sides of the reservations accommodated us for no additional charges. If I were to do this again, I wouldn’t fly Fly Bondi. Advice: If you do fly Fly Bondi, make sure you have flexibility on both sides of the reservation.
Where to Stay in Puerto Iguazú
If you plan to use the public bus system to get around to Iguazú Falls, you’ll want to stay near the Omnibus Station in Puerto Iguazú as you’ll want to catch the earliest busses you can. We stayed outside of town in a 3 bedroom, 7 bed flat with full kitchen and balcony for just $125 for 4 nights. You can see it here. If you want space, I’d recommend it. But if you want location, it’s too far from anything. We did a lot of walking in the heat.
How to Get Around Iguazú Falls
Ubers don’t work well here even though the app seems to imply they do. Busses can get you around, but you’ll be getting around with giant crowds that you’ll follow all day. With the heat and the people, we decided to get a driver.
We hired one driver to do a combo package for us which included roundtrip to the airport, roundtrip to Iguazú Argentina and roundtrip to Iguazu Brazil for $130 (with credit card). You can reach our driver for Iguazú Falls, Markos, on WhatsApp at +54 9 3757 67-0500.
For Paraguay, we had a different plan.
How to Get to Paraguay from Argentina for Cheap
We couldn’t resist being so close to an unexplored country and not dropping in. We didn’t want to spend another $100 with our driver to get us to Paraguay, and we figured there had to be a better way. We found “la ferria de Bolsa” which is the public ferry to Paraguay.
It’s very easy to take the ferry. But be wary, as you approach the Iguazú ferry port, the tour operators will very aggressively try to convince you you’re in the wrong place to catch the ferry and you need to take their tour. The Three Countries in a Day tour leaves out of the ferry port, so don’t get persuaded by them. You really are in the right place to get the ferry.
Thus, directions to get to Paraguay are easy. Arrive at the Ferry Port. Notice the blue and white signs opposite the restaurant and signs that says “Aduano.” Cars will be lined up to pass through the Aduano, or border. You’ll walk up to the border agent and pass through immigration.
Then continue straight ahead and on the right is a booth that says “Boleteria.” This is the ticket booth for the ferry. Pay about $4 one way for your ticket. They take credit card.
After you get your tickets, ask them for directions to where to board the car ferry. It’s down the dirt road where the cars are driving. Walk onto the ferry. Enjoy the 10 minute ride down the Iguazú river, across the Rio Plato and over the Paraná River. When you arrive at the bank of Paraguay, walk up the hill towards immigration.
You’ll see another “Boleteria” where you’ll buy your return tickets. They’re also about $4, but they only take cash (real, guarani and peso.) Then continue up the hill toward immigration and its process. Congratulations, you’re now in Paraguay.
It was hot and we had 2 hours before the boat returned, so we walked up into the little down of San Francisco, Paraguay to get ice cream. Did I say it was hot? It was hot! And straight uphill. It was not a walk for the faint of heart. And it was hot!!!! Along the way, several locals saw us and offered us rides. I guess we looked hot!!! We passed (in retrospect, we should have accepted the rides. Who knows what adventures I’d be writing about now?)
When we got to the ice cream store, it was closed! But we noticed a sign that said “timbre” or bell. We pushed the bell and lo and behold a magical lady appeared and dished us some well-deserved ice cream. She was thrilled to learn we were from the USA and thought it was funny we had come all the way to Paraguay to eat ice cream.
We finished our ice cream and returned to the Paraguay port and did the trip in reverse. Paraguay, check!
How to Enjoy Iguazú Falls, Argentina
Our driver picked us up at 6:30 so we could get to the Iguazú Falls on the Argentine side at 7 am. The secret to visiting Iguazú Falls is to get there EARLY. The Iguazú Falls Park opens at 7, get there before then if you can.
We stood in line for just a few minutes then went to pay the entry fee. None. Not one. None of our Visa cards worked, regardless of which bank our card came from. We looked like an automatic card dealer at a black jack table in Vegas, pulling out our six cards between us to see if they’d work.
We didn’t want to use up the last of our Argentine pesos to pay the 90,000 pesos ($90) entry fee into the park (for two.)
The cashier asked if we had American Express. We did, but we didn’t have our card on us. She asked if we had the digits to the AmEx written down. I did! I pulled up my google doc and recited the numbers to her. She keyed them in, and we got our tickets quickly. (They have free Wifi in the Iguazú Park, which was helpful.)
Our driver recommended that we visit Iguazú Park in the following order. Grab a train ticket quickly and be first on the train. Take it to the further station, which is the Devil’s Throat.
Get out of the train, enjoy Devil’s Throat. We were the first train there that day and stumbled upon a giant pack of momma coatis and their babies cleaning up last night’s mess. Steve and I had so much fun just watching the babies play for about ten minutes. We then walked about 15 minutes on the boardwalk out to the Devil’s Throat. And took a bajillion pictures.
Next, walk back to the train and take it to the second stop with is the trailhead for the Superior and Interior trails. Do the Superior first. It’s less shady, so you’ll want to do it in the morning before it gets too hot. It takes about an hour. We took another bajillion pictures.
The Superior trail at Iguazú makes a loop and returns at the beginning of the Interior trail. It is just a bit shorter than Superior and will take you about an equal amount of time. It’s a bit cooler and shadier, but there are steps at the end. By the time we returned to the train and back to the main gate, we had stepped over 14000 steps, had drunk 4 bottles of water , and were still thirsty. Did I say hot yet?
We brought lunch with us, enjoying a pasta salad and some fruit in the shade. Whilst there are a few places to eat and drink in the park, they’re few and far between. We enjoyed having our own grub with us to eat it with views at our own pace.
How to Enjoy Iguazú Falls, Brazil
Another 6:30 call jolted us away for our day at Iguazú Falls Brazil. Our driver picked us up at 7 and we crossed the Argentine and Brazilian borders quickly. Note that we didn’t need Brazilian visas for our trip, but starting in April, USA citizens will need Brazilian visas. The border crossings took about 20 minutes.
We arrived at the Iguazú Falls Brazil side at 8:25. Although the driver told us the park opened at 9, it appeared it had opened earlier because there were people ahead of us already loading the interpark bus. We paid $40 total for the two of us to enter the park, and then we jumped on the double-deck park bus and took the 20 minute ride to the Brazilian side of Iguazú Falls.
Whereas the Argentine walks to the falls are long and the falls take a while to appear, we could see the Brazilian Falls almost instantly. The path took us through the jungle with the river and its falls in view almost the entire time. We loved it more than the Argentine side. Spectacularly, the end of the trail ends at the Devil’s Throat, where we could get another bajillion shots while also getting a little wet–a nice treat.
When we’d had enough, we returned to the bus and to our driver. The return trip across the border was quite lengthy. The Brazilian border took about 90 minutes despite that fact that we were with a taxi in the fast lane. Things moved slowly. Interestingly, we passed the construction of the new Brazilian immigration building they’re building with anticipation of more traffic coming from the new bridge between Brazil and Paraguay. It’ll be interesting to see if they streamline the process.
Should You Do Both Side of Iguazú Falls?
Of course you *should* do both sides of Iguazú Falls. Whereas the Argentine side emphasizes the height of the falls and the jungle around it, the Brazilian side gets you up close and emphasizes the width.
And really, you may think you’ve had enough when you’ve seen one side, but the truth is, seeing both sides creates the entire picture of the place. (Oh, and yes, Paraguay as its own falls too called the Monday Falls. It would cost $30 for two for tickets to go plus another $60 in transportation fees. Getting ice cream was enough for us.)
If You Only Go to One Side of Iguazú Falls, Which Side Should You Go to?
Brazil. It’s more intimate, you can see the grand scheme of the falls, you get a little wet, and it’s cheaper (for admission.) We almost didn’t go to Brazil after being at the Argentine Falls because of the crowds, the heat, and the cost in Argentina, and we are so glad we found our second wind and went.
Can You Do Both Sides of Iguazú Falls in One Day?
Yes, but start early and have a driver. I can’t imagine trying to do both sides in one day due to the heat in January, but if it’s a cool day and you’ve got the gumption, you could do both sides in one day.
Another option would be to do the Argentine side in the morning and do the Paraguay ferry ride in the afternoon. Then do Brazil the next day.
What is a Perfect Itinerary for Iguazú Falls?
But if you’re slow traveling like us, a 4-day itinerary for Iguazú Falls is perfect.
Day 1: Arrive (our flight landed at 10:30 pm.)
Day 2: Sleep in. Get groceries. Go to Paraguay via ferry.
Day 3. Get up early. Do Iguazú Falls Argentina
Day 4: Get up early. Do Iguazú Falls Brazil. Catch a late flight.
Day 5. Catch an early flight because Fly Bondi cancelled your late flight.
Tip: If you are flying out of Argentina, do the Argentine Falls on your last day. Book a flight for late on that day and take a cab directly from the park to the airport and save yourself some time and money. You can leave your luggage in lockers at the park.
How Much Does It Cost to Go to Iguazú Falls?
Iguazú Falls is not cheap. Our total costs for two people break down like this:
Round trip flights (without luggage–we dropped our bags at a friends to keep for 5 days) $300
Accommodations $130
Private Driver+ Paraguay Ferry (Round/Trip) $148
Grocery (much cheaper than Buenos Aires. All meals and snacks while in Iguazú) $60
Entrance Fees $130
Total Costs for Iguazú Falls $768
Chris Englert, the Walking Traveler, believes walking is the platform for life. Wanderlusting since the age of 5, she’s since traveled all 50 US states and 62 countries. Chris shares her love of walking while traveling via blogs, books, and presentations. A natural storyteller, she invites you along as she explores the world, one walk at a time.
Currently, Chris and her husband, Steve, travel the world, full-time as nomads, with just their two carry-ons. They’ve been traveling since May, 2021.